The Ultimate Namibia Road Trip: A 10-Day Selfguided 4x4 Itinerary
Namib-Naukluft National Park
Bushlore - 4x4 Rentals
Our Namibian adventure commenced with our arrival in Windhoek, marking the beginning of our epic 10-day odyssey. A one-night stay in the country’s capital gave us a taste of what was to come. The next day we picked up our rental vehicles, not just any cars, but specially equipped 4x4s, capable of handling the rugged Namibian terrain.
Our group, comprising five adventurous souls - myself, my boyfriend Colin Ringas, travel enthusiasts Crosby and Dylan, and Crosby's sister Ansley, divided ourselves between two vehicles. We chose the Toyota Helix DC 4x4 HILS from Bushlore Africa, an economical yet rugged five-seater perfect for all kinds of terrains. Their custom double fuel tanks were designed for the remote expanses of Namibia, a country whose name in the Nama language fittingly means "vast place".
Our 4x4s were equipped with two spare tires, a roof rack tent, a fully stocked kitchenette for meals on the go, and even a water tank with a convenient spout in the back.
I highly reccamend getting insurance. We met a local on our trip who left me with a chilling quote “Namibia is a very safe country, but the roads are deadly.” This is mostly in reference to how it is not encouraged to drive at night since there are such an imense amount of animals who come towards the road in the pitch black. The dust makes it very difficult to see anything in the daytime letalone in the dark. Needless to say, we opted for the full insurance option, an additional expense of a $200-ish hundred dollars. While it seemed like a hefty amount initially, it was well worth it, considering the flat tires and other unexpected incidents we encountered. Namibia is not for the faint-hearted, and our adventure was just beginning!
TIP - Google Maps assumes that all roads will be traveled at 120km per hour. However, most of the roads you'll encounter are gravel or sand. Although generally well maintained, reaching a consistent speed of 120km per hour is not possible. Therefore, you can expect that any travel time estimate provided by Google Maps will likely take approximately 30% longer.
Day 1
Little Sosuss Campsite
Once we hit the road, our first stop was the charming Little Sossus Campsite, which took us a 4-hour drive from Windhoek. Not to be confused with Little Sosuss Lodge which is just around the corner. Our site included a well-structured overhang with ample parking space, enough to comfortably accommodate our two 4x4s under a covered roof. We were happy to see that our private campsite came equipt with an indoor sink/counter area, as well as a closed bathroom with shower. The campsite lights a fire to heat the water of occupied campsites every evening around 5 PM. We planned to anchor here for two nights, which gave us ample time to delve into the mesmerizing beauty of Sossusvlei. After dark we heard jackels calling in the distance while sipping on our local hard ciders, it was magic. It was $12.20/pp per night.
Little Sosuss Campsite
Aside from the natual beauty in the area, one of the most exhilarating experiences in the area is the hot air balloon ride. Booking a ride is highly recommended to enjoy a panoramic view of the Namibian landscape. We sadly did not plan ahead and did not book something in advance and just admired them from the ground. Here are some good options I probably would have went with. Viator | Namib Sky Balloons
On the following morning, we embarked on a 30-minute drive to the entrance of the majestic Namib-Naukluft National Park. Arriving at sunrise, we joined a line of other vehicles eager to explore the park. After paying an entrance fee of 850 for two vehicles and five people, we journeyed for another hour into the heart of this vast park. It's important to note that the park operates from sunrise to sunset, ensuring you ample time to take in the surreal landscapes.
Our route took us past the towering Dune 40 and Dune 45, and a vast amount of other beautiful unmarked landscapes. A sturdy 4x4 is essential for navigating the challenging terrains of this park. If you don't have one, don't worry! You can opt for a hike or hire a safari vehicle to get you closer to these natural spectacles.
Remember to bring plenty of water, sunblock, and hats, as the desert can get very hot, especially during midday. Most visitors , including us, enter the park at sunrise, driving straight to Big Daddy Dune and Deadvlei. This is because the sand becomes scorching hot by midday. I do think it would be equally captivating to visit the park just before sunset because then you'll find every single dune to yourself! Viewing these spots as the sun rises would only be possible if you book a campsite within the park, but they’re known to book out very far in advance.
Just before you reach Deadvlei you will have to make it through some loose sand roads. Navigating through the soft sand was exhilarating. The staff at Little Sossus Lodge had kindly advised us that many people get stuck in this area and require a tow to get out. Following their recommendation to maintain a steady speed of 30 km/h and keep a safe distance between our vehicles, we encountered no problems.
Deadvlei
Finally, we reached our destination - the Big Daddy Dune and the ancient Deadvlei. It's fascinating to know that 'Deadvlei' or 'dead marsh' was once a thriving oasis, now a stark white clay marsh contrasted by dark, dead Camel Thorn trees and surrounded by some of the highest sand dunes in the world. This site is a paradise for photographers, it’s like no place I’ve ever seen.
From the parking lot to the bucket list destination of Deadvlei, it's a 15 to 20-minute hike. At the trailhead where people park their 4x4s, you can see Big Daddy Dune to the left, and if you hike to the right of Big Daddy, then you will hit Deadvlei. We spent a few hours here, mesmerized by these time-weathered trees and creatively capturing them in our photographs.
Visitors should note that it is forbidden to touch the trees, and drones are not permitted in the park due to past incidents of wildlife harassment.
We visited Sesrium Canyon on our way out of Namib-Naukluft National Park as it is the closest thing to the exit. It’s important to note that the park closes at sunset so we only had a few minutes to admire the canyon from above. If you were there earlier many people hike to the bottom in some places the canyon is only 2 meters wide.
Day 2 —
During our stay at the Little Sossus campsite, our host recommended a nearby hidden gem, Hauchabfontein, which is a farm/campground. Situated amidst the Namibian panorama, Hauchabfontein is encircled by the Naukluft mountains in the north, the flat-topped Tsaris Mountains in the south, and the Namib Desert in the west. This unique location, at the confluence of the Tsauchab River and the Zebra River, offers a remarkable swimming experience. Hauchabfontein is that it's one of the few places in the world where you can witness the harmony of four different ecosystems: mountains, rivers, forests, and desert, all in one place! It boasts year-round crystal clear fountain water and probably houses Namibia's largest quiver tree forest. For a small fee, you're welcomed into their natural swimming hole, home to a few harmless catfish, visible in the green-hued water. The swimming hole is even refreshing during the winter season.
*Please note, there are no bathrooms or changing rooms near the site, so it's advisable to change at the main lobby or near the campsites.
We made a pit stop at the quaint town of Solitaire to refuel, stock up on firewood, and grab a few groceries. While the cafe/bakery was somewhat underwhelming, it was a pleasant break. Naturally, we also picked up some Savanna Dry Premium Cider. The entrance to the rest stop is lined with vintage junkyard cars, adding a touch of charm. Established in 1949, it's grown from a simple service station to a modest settlement, renowned for its bakery and famous apple pie. Besides its bakery, the town offers stunning desert landscapes and serves as a gateway to iconic sites like Sossusvlei and Deadvlei.
We initially thought we spotted meerkats in the distance, but on closer inspection, they turned out to be little yellow mongooses. These curious creatures had a network of tunnels just off the side of the rest stop. We spent some time photographing them as they came up close, intrigued by our presence. The yellow mongoose is a small mammal that lives in colonies of up to 20 individuals in a permanent underground complex of burrows, often cohabitating with meerkats and ground squirrels, sharing maintenance and adding new tunnels as needed. So cute!
Our next stop was the Bushman's Campsite, an unexpected gem down a dusty road. As we descended the landscape, a beautiful lodge revealed itself adorned with cacti and a seating area. Bushman the owner, who personally maintains the site, assisted us with check-in. As dusk fell, a small watering hole, illuminated with a light post, became a magnet for local wildlife. We watched in awe as oryx and zebras took turns drinking from the watering. My favorite, though, was a little curious jackal who waited for us to retreat to our roof rack tents, came up and explored our campsite. Even though it was dark, the full moon was enough to watch the little guy sniff around.
In the morning, we ordered 5 coffees from the main lodge which came out on a tray with cream sugar, and evaporated milk biscuits. We chatted more with Bushman who told us about the property history. Thier watering hole & fresh water reserve are somewhat new (within the last 5 years) as a result of persistent drilling efforts that eventually found water at 231 meters! They almost gave up at 227 but kept drilling and voila! Bushman and his family have run this place for years. I loved looking at the walls in the main lodge, plastered with postcards and happy memories from guests.
The campsites are spacious, comfortably accommodating more than two people, with larger sites fitting groups of eight or more. The main camp setup is open-air and stunningly scenic, with each campsite situated away from the others for privacy. Most sites have a kitchen setup with lights and a private toilet. The shared block offers flush toilets and solar-heated showers which we all took advantage of. This campsite is a place to disconnect from digital lives and engage with one another, offering a unique experience in the middle of nowhere. There were even signs that said “no drones”, and “No wifi - Talk to each other!”
There's a small swimming pool to cool off from the desert heat and a well-stocked self-service bar. The campsite also offers barbecue facilities and packs, and firewood. For those who seek peace and quiet, there are exclusive bush camps situated further away. The rates for 2024 are N$200 per person/per night.
Day 3
One of the highlights of our Namibian adventure was the journey to Walvis Bay, Namibia's second-largest city. This port city is nestled on Namibia's western coast, encircled by the Pelican Point, a vibrant lagoon, filled with diverse birdlife including flamingos, pelicans, and Damara terns. The bustling harbor sees a constant stream of fishing boats and ships - Its a very industrial town.
What excited us most about this area was its unique landscape where the desert meets the sea, characterized by a narrow beach stretch where vehicles can traverse between the ocean's crashing waves and towering sand dunes. These coastal dunes, including the notable Dune 7, the highest in Namibia, signify the commencement of the vast Namib Desert, extending east of the bay.
We quickly discovered that self-driving through this area of Namib Naukluft National Park isn't permitted, so we booked a tour with Sand Waves, an excellent decision. The tour provided two medium-sized SUVs, highly equipped to handle the loose desert sand, for our group of five. We departed from Walvis Bay, known for being an industrial shipping hub with a noticeable level of smog and pollution, and embarked on an hour-long drive through an industrial salt mining area and then off-road through some smaller sand dunes. The Namib-Naukluft National Park is the oldest desert in the world and one of the largest national parks in Africa. Interestingly, once out of the city, we were greeted by clear blue skies, a stark contrast to the polluted city air.
Once we reached the tops of the dunes, The Sand Waves team set up a small table complete with snacks and sparkling wine. Imagine us, sipping champagne and nibbling on hors d'oeuvres in such an extraordinary setting – it was an experience that made us pause and appreciate the moment. The sense of surrealism heightened when the sun began to set, casting a magical glow over the vast dune landscape.
Our guides were just as enthusiastic and excited as us, even though they see these landscapes every day. They took us to some of the most stunning spots in the world, including peaks that overlook the coast. The thrill of shooting down the mountains in our vehicles is one I'll never forget, and a word of caution - this tour might not be the best for those who get carsick.
Depending on the time of day, you can cross the beach stretch between the dunes and the ocean, a unique feature of the Sandwich Harbor area. If it's cloudy during your tour, there's a high chance that the wind will clear the clouds away just in time for sunset, as it happened during our tour. Walvis Bay weather is known to be very volitile.
The beautiful sunset we witnessed was one of the most incredible I've ever seen, making it a day etched in our memories forever. For anyone looking to experience the magic of the Namibian desert and the awe-inspiring spectacle of where the desert meets the sea, I highly recommend booking a tour with Sand Waves.
We returned from our Sandwich Harbor tour in the evening, and we were all covered in sand from head to toe. We made the decidion to split a large rental unit so that we all may shower and get a good night of rest before setting out again. We booked the Lagoon Chalets. The showers were fantastic, and in a great safe location.
Godenfang Restaurant Walvis Bay
We had the pleasure of dining at a charming farm-to-table style restaurant. The ambiance was incredibly cozy, and to our delightful surprise, the eatery was home to a handful of cats. As a cat-lover, I savored my meal with a friendly feline keeping me company. The food was great, arguably one of the best meals I had during the my time in Namibia. This restaurant caters to various palates, offering an impressive selection of vegetarian dishes. It serves as a pizzeria, cocktail bar, and live music venue, providing a vibrant atmosphere. Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, it's a unique gem in the heart of Walvis Bay. You can check out their Instagram or make a reservation online.
Day 4 -
The next morning we worked and enjoyed breakfast at Dolphin Cafe. The coffee was good and affordable, and there were great breakfast options. A great place to sit and use a Wi-Fi connection before hitting the road.
If you look up things to do in Walvis Bay, you will no doubt come across the pink lake. In reality, this is a salt flat in a government facility that appears pink. For context, the city owns one of the three RAMSAR wetlands and produces 90 percent of the salt in sub-Saharan Africa. Due to large-scale salt production and processing in Walvis Bay, large pink lakes with high salt levels develop in the region. It is not swimmable or easily accessible by car.
We ventured to this area and drove around a bit. The previous day, I met some other tourists who said they got out of their car to take photos of the pink lake, only to be scolded by a government worker and made to delete all their photos. I’m not sure if it's really worth getting a photo, so proceed with caution. In this same area, you can find thousands of wild flamingos. It might be worth driving out to the peninsula to see them.
Bird Sanctuary
As you drive in or out of town on Highway C14, you can see the Bird Sanctuary from the road. Hundreds of flamingos wade in the waters and along the sandy dunes. It’s a site to stop and take in. You can park your car and go for a little nature walk.
Dry Camping
We dry camped between Walvis Bay and Swakopmund. We found a spot on iOverlander, which worked for the evening. However, in the morning, a gentleman walking his three huge borzoi dogs approached us and informed us that off-roading and camping are not allowed in this specific park location. So we quickly packed up and left. I recommend booking a caravan spot at a designated campsite. I’ve come to appreciate making bookings in advance for this trip. With very limited connection, it would be impossible to find and book a campsite in advance while on the go.
Day 5
The night before, we were driving along the main highway connecting Walvis Bay and Swakopmund when a semi-truck going too fast kicked up a rock that went straight through our back window. We are so lucky it hit the back window, a moment sooner and it would have hit Colin. We pulled over, counted our blessings, and wrapped it up with some tape and cardboard thanks to the gas station attendants. We drove to Swakopmund, a coastal city in Namibia. Bushlore has connections for this exact reason in all major cities in the country, so luckily someone from PG Glass was kind enough to come in on their day off and repair our window. It took less than two hours.
While waiting for the repair, we sat and enjoyed fresh juice and a tasty breakfast at Stadtmitte Cafe. The WiFi was fast and free, making it a great place to hang out and wait.
I wish we had spent more time exploring Swakopmund. While Walvis Bay is known for its industrial nature, Swakopmund is known for its small shops and sandy beaches facing the Atlantic Ocean. Established by German colonists in 1892, the city’s colonial landmarks include the Swakopmund Lighthouse and the Mole, an old sea wall. Next to the lighthouse, the Swakopmund Museum documents Namibian history. Inland, the elegant Swakopmund Railway Station, now a hotel, also dates to the colonial era.
Day 6
If I could have spent two nights in one location, it would have been here. The giant granite boulders next to the towering mountains create a photographer's paradise and a spectacular campsite. Speaking of camping, there are two incredibly similar campsites here. We stayed at Spitzkoppe Campsite, not to be confused with Spitzkoppe Mountain Camp. The biggest difference is that Spitzkoppe Campsite allows you to choose a site within the park, while the other is about 500 meters away from the park.
Upon arrival, we checked in with our online booking, received a map and a list of rules, and were then sent on our way to pick a campsite. It is not possible to reserve a campsite in advance. The range of sites is incredible: some are tucked away in the curvy dirt roads, some hidden behind massive boulders, and some in the bush. I recommend driving around the park to check out all the numbered sites before choosing. We encountered some of the most insane wind in our one night of camping here. The ripping gusts would become silent and then ramp back up all at once making it impossible to sleep. Morning came and none of us got any shut eye and our rain covers were all but ripped off of the tent. Bring earplugs and sturdy accomodations.
Spitzkoppe, often referred to as the "Matterhorn of Namibia," is a remarkable collection of unique granite peaks that are around 700 million years old. These formations rise dramatically from the flat desert landscape, with the highest peak standing approximately 1,728 meters (5,669 feet) above sea level, creating breathtaking panoramic views. The area is not just a visual marvel but also a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, offering numerous hiking and walking trails. One of the most iconic features in the park is the famous rock arch, a natural formation that has become a favorite among photographers and nature lovers alike.
For history and archaeology enthusiasts, Spitzkoppe is a treasure trove. The site contains at least 37 identified rock art sites, which include ancient paintings and carvings created by the San people, also known as the Bushmen. These artworks provide invaluable insights into the lives and beliefs of the region's early inhabitants. Test excavations at one of these sites have revealed a well-preserved archaeological sequence spanning the last 4,000 years, highlighting the area's long-standing significance as a cultural and historical landmark.
Damaraland, located in north-central Namibia, is a region of rugged beauty known for its dramatic landscapes, ancient rock art, and diverse wildlife. This area is characterized by its massive granite formations, arid plains, and the iconic Brandberg Mountain, the highest peak in Namibia. Damaraland is home to the famous Spitzkoppe, often referred to as the "Matterhorn of Namibia," which is a striking collection of granite peaks rising sharply from the flat desert floor. This region is rich in history and culture, with numerous sites showcasing ancient rock art created by the San people. The rock art at Spitzkoppe and other locations within Damaraland provides a fascinating glimpse into the lives and beliefs of the region's early inhabitants, making it a significant destination for those interested in both natural beauty and historical heritage.
Day 7
Skeleton Coast
This whole day was a long day of driving from Spitzkoppe to the skeleton coast, to Etosha. The Skeleton Coast, a name that conjures up images of shipwrecks and desolation, is one of Namibia's most intriguing destinations. This 40 km wide and 500 km long coastal stretch is a place where the cold Benguela Current of the Atlantic Ocean meets the vast dunes and desert landscape of north-western Namibia. The coast got its name from the numerous whale skeletons that once littered the shore, used by the Ovahimba people to build their huts.
The Skeleton Coast is famous for its shipwrecks. Many ships have met their end here due to the thick fog, rough seas, unpredictable currents, and stormy winds. Sailors who managed to reach the shore often faced an even grimmer fate, as the in hospitable desert offered no relief, leading to many dying of thirst.
Despite its harsh environment, the Skeleton Coast is teeming with life. It's home to desert-adapted elephants, rhinos, lions, brown hyenas, jackals, giraffes, seals, oryx, kudus, and zebras. The area also boasts unique plant species that rely solely on the daily fog from the Atlantic Ocean for moisture, such as the welwitschias, !Nara melons, lithops (often called “living stones”), lichen, and pencil bush.
The Skeleton Coast Park is divided into two parts. The southern part, stretching from the Ugab River to Torra Bay, is accessible with a permit. The northern part, extending from Torra Bay to the Kunene River at the Angolan border, is only accessible with a tour operator who holds the necessary concessions. This northern section is considered the most attractive and pristine part of the park.
The drive from the coast to our campsite was stunning. It reminded me so much of Monument Valley in Utah. We drove in the evening and arrived at Hoada Campsite after dark. We were pleasantly surprised with the campsite setup. There was running hot water, a braai, a counter surface, and two covered tented areas. In the morning, we discovered we were surrounded by incredibly beautiful rock formations. The main building area also had a pool and viewing deck, which I wish we could have stayed to use. It was a beautiful sight.
Day 8
Etosha
Etosha is 22.000 sq km still which makes it larger than the Serengeti and is comparable in size to Kruger. Some travelers venture to Namibia solely to witness the grandeur of Etosha National Park. "Etosha" translates to the "great white area," referring to the enormous salt pan that dominates the landscape. This vast expanse is the largest salt pan in Africa, and when it rains, the pan transforms into a shimmering oasis, attracting hundreds of thousands of flamingos. It's a sight that will leave you speechless.
You can book a myriad of tours and experiences through the official website, offering everything from guided safaris to night drives. Unfortunately, we couldn't secure a campsite within the park itself, so we opted for one just outside the gate. Here's where I need to be transparent and encourage some additional research. While our chosen campground was beautiful and impeccably maintained, we were disheartened upon arrival to see large signs advertising wildlife tours. As we explored, we noticed cheetahs and jackals pacing within fenced enclosures. A quick inquiry at the front desk revealed that this site, like many others in the area, keeps these majestic animals captive to run small safari operations. It's disheartening because these animals are not in rehabilitation but are confined for life, reliant on being hand-fed. Please do your research and, if possible, stay within Etosha for an authentic and ethical experience.
Despite our initial disappointment, we spent one night at the campsite since it was already dark. The next morning, we decided to move to a different campground on our way back to Windhoek.
Etosha National Park itself was nothing short of breathtaking. It boasts the most abundant wildlife visible from the road than anywhere else we've been in Namibia. The truly wild animals can be seen on a self-driving safari through the park, which is open from sunrise to sunset. We entered the park near a meat checkpoint and continued to Okaukuejo, the main hub for park-goers. Here, we encountered the famous watering hole, a bustling scene where elephants, impalas, zebras, wildebeest, and a variety of birds coexisted in harmony. The watering hole is particularly renowned for being illuminated at night, offering a magical nocturnal spectacle.
We spent a few hours driving through the park, spotting rhinos, curious jackals, and graceful giraffes. Although we didn't see any lions or cheetahs in the wild, the experience was still awe-inspiring. I captured the photo of a lifetime with my 200-600mm lens just as the sun was setting and a rhino sprinted by.
An interesting aspect of our visit was the meat checkpoint….Yeah you heard that right. While we didn't have any raw meat with us, we witnessed a bizarre scene: two cars sped past us, and one had a hoof of an animal hanging out the back of their camper! We debated whether it was a prank but decided to report it at the meat checkpoint upon our departure from the park. We later learned that the culprits were found and fined for breaking multiple rules. Ah, the adventures and oddities of travel!
Day 9
Omatozu was possibly one of the nicest Campsites we’ve stayed at during our road trip around Namibia. There are not many but it was the perfect distance between Etosha and Windhoek. The site had a bathroom felt hotel style with a fancy tiled area and great hot water pressure. a toilet and vanity area with a mirror. Only a few steps away from the site, there is a small watering hole for animals - some sites even have a view of it!
Day 10
On our final day in Namibia, we woke up early and departed as the sun rose. Only about an hour away from Omatozu Campsite, we returned to Windhoek. You can expect around an hour of time to be spent on your Bushlore return. They inspected the vehicle as well is took inventory. Bushlore can organize a complimentary ride to the airport which is over 45 minutes outside of the city of Windhoek.
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